Sew Over It Molly Top and Maria Denmark self-drafted stretch skirt

Unlike some sewists, my sewing output isn’t that great to warrant multiple garments per post. So you know when I do have a few creations together, they are super-simple makes. These two fit that description: easy-to-sew wardrobe staples made entirely from scraps. They were sewn way back in March (or earlier), and only photographed recently!

Siobhan stands in front of a weatherboard house. She wears a drop shoulder knit tee with grey/black striped body and concrete grey neckband and sleeves, with black straight knee length skirt, black leggings and ankle boots. She is smiling.

Let’s start with the top. Back in 2016, I made a Tessuti Fave Top from the most snuggly, soft viscose/elastane jersey from The Remnant Warehouse.* The top didn’t work out (neither did their Mandy Boat Tee, which has been removed from my wardrobe – it’s something about the silhouette), but the fabric was so lovely I kept it to make into something else.

Siobhan stands in front of a weatherboard house. She wears a drop shoulder knit tee with grey/black striped body and concrete grey neckband and sleeves, with black straight knee length skirt, black leggings and ankle boots. She is smiling.

It sat there for a good year or so, until I realised I could use the limited yardage left in the top combined with some scraps to make a colour-blocked tee. Now, I usually hate combining fabrics when sewing, but the basic colours in the striped viscose went so well with the concrete grey cotton/elastane I bought from Aliexpress** (used in my In the Folds Jersey Dress) that I relaxed my “no colour blocking” rule.

Siobhan stands in front of a weatherboard house. She wears a drop shoulder knit tee with grey/black striped body and concrete grey neckband and sleeves, with black straight knee length skirt, black leggings and ankle boots. She is side on to the camera to showcase the well-matched shoulder seam stripes.
Seeing these pictures inspired me to get a haircut, ASAP. It looks much better now! Bye, rattail.

There were enough Aliexpress fabric scraps left over for the sleeves and neckband of my chosen pattern, the Sew Over It Molly Tee, available as a free download (sans instructions) from Mollie Makes. I’d previously made it as a dress, combined with other patterns, and inadvertently kept most of the previous alterations. So this top is a bit wider in the underarm, body and sleeve. Plus I kept the hem of Fave Top, so don’t expect your Molly to look anything like this! But it’s a solid tee pattern and I liked the finished result at the time.

 

The skirt is one I’ve made before – a self-drafted knit skirt pattern from a Maria Denmark tutorial. I needed a basic black skirt, and had some bengaline left over from my Style Arc Elle/Airlie Pants. Bengaline isn’t technically a knit, but it has such similar characteristics that it fit without any alterations to my pattern. I just added a waistband to fit whatever elastic I had lying around (38mm), and chucked on a hem facing when I decided I like the length as drafted.***

Siobhan stands in front of a weatherboard house. She wears a drop shoulder knit tee with grey/black striped body and concrete grey neckband and sleeves, with black straight knee length skirt, black leggings and ankle boots. Her back is to the camera.

I’m surprised it worked as well as it did! But now I have a skirt I can wear with anything.

 

With the benefit of several months’ hindsight, the skirt was a very handy addition to my wardrobe. The bengaline and knitted elastic combo is so comfy that you don’t really feel like you’re wearing a straight skirt at all. (My other self-drafted knit skirt required firmer, high-density elastic to support the weight of the heavy ponte, and isn’t as comfortable as a result.) With time, I realised that I really do hate colour-blocking, and the Molly top went straight to the op shop without any wears. At least it was just scraps!

Siobhan stands in front of a weatherboard house. She wears a drop shoulder knit tee with grey/black striped body and concrete grey neckband and sleeves, with black straight knee length skirt, black leggings and ankle boots. She is smiling.
That’s one perfectly fitted skirt. To the top: BYE FELICIA.

 

The details:
Pattern: Sew Over It Molly Top & Dress
Pattern details: “A staple in any wardrobe, a basic jersey top is always a must-have on any city break. Style it up with a breton stripe, or colour block for a more funky look. The perfect pattern to try sewing jersey for the first time, Molly will be a hit with anyone who likes a quick, satisfying sew. What’s more, make it in a heavier ponte di roma jersey and Molly makes a perfect casual dress.” Available in Sew Over It My Capsule Wardrobe: City Break eBook or as a free PDF download.
Fabric: Snuggle Grey Stripe Jersey, viscose/elastane, from The Remnant Warehouse, as taken from Tessuti My Fave Top. Leftovers of Aliexpress 40s cotton/spandex knit (A0385). 94% cotton, 6% spandex, combed finish, 175gsm.
Other materials: Clear elastic, to stabilise shoulders.
Mods: Size 12 Molly Top
– Added 1cm width to each side of sleeve at cap, and at underarms
– Added 5mm width to each side of sleeve at hem (these modifications were inadvertently replicated from my previous version of the pattern which was for a heavier weight knit)
– 1cm forward head adjustment: performed evenly from neck to shoulder notch, then to nothing at sleeve join
– Used existing hem from Fave Top, with width at hem roughly taken from Grainline Hemlock Tee.

Pattern: Maria Denmark Easy Made to Measure Skirt
Pattern details: Straight knit skirt drafted to measurements.
Fabric: Leftovers of 148cm wide bengaline suiting, black, from Spotlight. Rayon/nylon/elastane.
Other materials: 38mm elastic.
Mods: Added 44mm wide straight waistband with encased elastic. Used hem facing to preserve length.

 

*Note to self: buy more fabric from The Remnant Warehouse.

**I wrote a whole post about fabric/notion shopping on Aliexpress, if you’re interested.

***I kept the length as drafted last time by not hemming the skirt at all. You’d think I would have taken more notice of my extensive project notes, but no.

Author: Siobhan S

20 something, living in country Australia. Spoonie profile: ME/CFS, dysautonomia, anxiety. All about sewing, knitting and food. Unapologetic feminist and disability advocate.

4 thoughts on “Sew Over It Molly Top and Maria Denmark self-drafted stretch skirt”

  1. Hee hee! I love color-blocking (within reasonable parameters). If we were the same size I’d have paid you to send that top to me! 🙂 That skirt is GREAT, that really will be a “wear anywhere” type of garment. It’s both elegant and casual! I love those. Did you see the Estuary Skirt just came out at Sew Liberated? It’s downloaded and in my files, now all I have to do is get the family moved and get a sewing space set up again, and make it. And about a dozen other things.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Dang, I would have happily posted that top to you! Colour-blocking is nice on other people, just not for me. I think I find it too hard to match colour-blocked garments with other items of clothing/accessories.

      And yes! I just love this skirt pattern. It fits so well which is a huge surprise – most RTW straight skirts only fit one area of my body (waist/stomach/hips/bum, choose one!) so are basically unwearable. I didn’t see the Estuary Skirt! It’s very cute, I love those pockets. Can totally see it on you.

      Liked by 1 person

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