Named Inari again – Indie Pattern Month 2018

I didn’t have any particular plans to enter The Monthly Stitch’s Indie Pattern Month this year, despite my all-out efforts last time around (New To Me, Hack It, Indie Pattern Royalty). It was pleasant happenstance that one of their challenges – Around the World – perfectly aligned with my existing sewing plans.

A woman stands in front of a garden fence. She wears a stripe knit tee dress with black leggings, silver runners and big tortoiseshell sunglasses. A cat sits on a bench behind her.
Say hello to my little friend. And our new garden bench from KMart.

That plan was to sew the Named Inari Tee Dress in leftover cotton/spandex knit from Spotlight – the same knit which I used to make two Grainline Hemlock Tees. This fabric really is the gift that keeps on giving!

 

I had already made this pattern twice: once as a stretch woven dress, and another as a woven tee. Both times I sized up fairly generously to accomodate the reduced give in the fabric, which worked well. This strategy, however, did not work well at all in a very stretchy knit.

A woman stands in front of a garden fence. She wears a stripe knit tee dress with black leggings, silver runners and big tortoiseshell sunglasses. A cat sits on a bench behind her.

When I cut out the exact same size, with the same adjustments in the cotton/spandex knit, it looked hilariously bad. The fabric draped and stretched and pulled in an unsightly manner. So, much to my dismay, I unpicked the entire dress and recut it in a size 42.

Due to fabric restrictions, I cut the length as drafted (I had added 15cm length to my previous versions). The pattern pieces just squeezed in, with a little shaved off the back side seam near the vent, which I added to the front so the dress would not be narrower around.

A woman stands in front of a garden fence. She wears a stripe knit tee dress with black leggings, silver runners and big tortoiseshell sunglasses. A cat sits on a bench behind her.
You’d think being a knit dress, this project wouldn’t require that much effort, but it wanted to fight me the whole way through. After the unpicking and recutting saga, I sewed the dress up again, carefully stripe matching as well as I could. Hemming posed another problem – I machine basted and sewed a narrow hem (1cm, to preserve length) with a straight stitch, which came out looking like this:

The underside of a machine-stitched hem. The stitching is wobbly and loose.
BURN IT WITH FIRE

After coming to the logical conclusion that my sewing machine hated me, I hand basted the hem down, took out the wobbly stitching and redid it with a square zigzag (2.5L & W). Sewing over water-soluble interfacing ensured the fabric didn’t move around under me, and that the zigzag didn’t stretch the hem out more than it already had.

Close up of a hem in a stripe knit. The narrow hem is secured with a neat, square zigzag.
Much better. Turning corners is tricky when sewing a zigzag. I chose to overlap the stitches at the corners to secure the area, and because it looked neater.

 

Anyway, all the effort proved fruitful, as I now have an easy-to-wear dress for summer. The pattern alterations did the trick, besides the length. Heads up for taller sewists – this thing is short. I should have realised from the pattern photography, if I’d paid any attention.

And yet again, I’m here with the repeat pattern makes. I guess I’ve well and truly reached the stage where I can’t be bothered trying a new pattern if I’ve already found something that works.

A woman stands in front of a garden fence. She wears a stripe knit tee dress with black leggings, silver runners and big tortoiseshell sunglasses. A cat sits on a bench behind her.
The deets:
Pattern: Named Inari Tee Dress
Pattern details: A loose-fitting tee dress and a cropped A-line tee, available in sizes 32-46. Comes as a layered PDF, copyshop or A4, or a printed pattern.
Fabric: Leftovers of 145cm wide printed cotton spandex, stripe, navy/gold spot, from Spotlight.
Other materials: Clear elastic.
Mods: Size 42
– Nearly 2.5cm forward head adjustment, moved sleeve cap forward to match
– Used own neckband (5cm wide, folded in half)
– Due to fabric restrictions, took 6mm from back side seam near hem, so added that to front side seam at same location
– Only took 1cm hem (which added 2cm length)

Author: Siobhan S

20 something, living in country Australia. Spoonie profile: ME/CFS, dysautonomia, anxiety. All about sewing, knitting and food. Unapologetic feminist and disability advocate.

14 thoughts on “Named Inari again – Indie Pattern Month 2018”

  1. I have done exactly no sewing this month at all – so no plans for IPM for me either. That said I am making some scrundlewear for my niece when I’m away visiting my sister this weekend. Glad for your serendipity!

    Liked by 1 person

      1. I made undies years ago when we were living in Holland but haven’t since as NZ has this awesome brand called Thunderpants ☺but i predict if the kids ones go well, i will buy the adult pattern too!

        Liked by 1 person

          1. Yeah, they’re not cheap so if the kids versions work out well, might have to shell out for the adult version. We lived in Holland for a year between 2011-2012. Alex was born there. A v long story! But we mostly enjoyed our time there.

            Liked by 1 person

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