Just recently I was writing about sewing pattern repeats, and here I am sharing my fifth, sixth and seventh versions of the Grainline Hemlock Tee!* I wasn’t completely enamoured with it upon release, but it’s proven to be an easy to sew and easy to wear wardrobe staple.
This time, I used some cotton knits from the Spotlight clearance table. The first is from their organic cotton line, with designs by Charlie Harper. I thought the pattern was clouds, but it turns out they are fungi??? Either way, it’s a nice print and the fabric is thick and soft.
Like usual, I added some length to the sleeve and body hem, then fine tuned it during fitting. I also wing my own neckbands for knits, cutting a long, 5cm wide strip, pressing in half then applying by feel. This neckband is pieced due to
complete lack of foresight when cutting fabric restrictions, and I matched the seams to the shoulder seams of the garment.
The next top is much the same, but I remembered to reserve enough fabric for a long neckband this time! The fabric is is a navy/white stripe from Spotlight’s regular cotton/spandex knit line, but with the feature of glitter gold spots painted on at regular intervals. It also had the feature of dye stains throughout, so I got it at a heavy discount. It was so well discounted that I bought 4m of it!
This turned out to be the right decision, as with a Retayne treatment, the colour has not bled further (despite a hot wash and tumble dry). The existing stains aren’t that noticeable and I really don’t care about stained fabric anyway. Happily, I squeezed two tops and a (planned) dress from that lot!
The second top, of course, was another Hemlock. I can’t believe I haven’t thought of this before, but it suddenly occurred to me it would make a fantastic summer tee with the sleeves lopped off. I was planning on putting some sleeve cuffs or bands on, but it looked so good on its own I just left it unhemmed, darning in the overlocked ends and bartacking the seam allowances down at the hems so they wouldn’t come undone.
You already know my thoughts about the Hemlock tee, so I won’t repeat them (versions one-three, four, five and six). Suffice to say I like it, but I don’t like that it is one size only (with the implication that the “default” size is a small one). Being such a popular pattern, perhaps it would be worth it for Grainline to grade it up as Tessuti are doing with their free Mandy Boat Tee pattern.
Pattern: Grainline Hemlock Tee
Pattern details: “The Hemlock is an oversized tee that was designed with knits in mind. This tee is just the right amount of slouchy. With its bracelet length sleeves, dropped shoulder seams, and a hem hits below the hip it’s the perfect comfy top to pair with jeans, skinny leg trousers, shorts, and straight cut skirts!” Available as a free PDF download.
Fabric: 1.5m x 112cm wide Charlie Harper 100% organic cotton knit, Fungi #1. 4m x 145cm wide printed cotton spandex, stripe, navy/gold spot, both from Spotlight (did not use all of 4m).
Other materials: Clear elastic, to stabilise shoulders.
– 1/2″ forward head adjustment, same done to sleeve cap
– Adjusted sleeves and body hem by:
– 7.5cm added to body, 4.5cm added to hem on blue and white long sleeve tee
– 5cm added to body, 4cm added to hem on long sleeve stripe tee
– 5mm removed from hem, sleeves cut at 17cm from sleeve head with no hems on short sleeve stripe tee
– Cut own neckband, 5cm wide (6mm SA), and stretched to fit when sewing
*Does that make me a Grainline fangirl?