Warning: contains GIFs
I went on a knit-sewing session a while back, resulting in my ponte skirt and a couple of long-sleeve tees. I actually meant to blog them together, but the weather has been so offensively hot this Autumn that I’ve had to wait until it cooled down enough that I could wear long sleeves without swooning like a 20s film star.
The pattern is the Grainline Hemlock Tee – my fifth and sixth versions, if you’d believe. Like all my previous tops, the shoulder seams were shifted forward 1/2″ to address the symmetry in the pattern that would result in a backwards-sliding top on me.
I added some length to the body and sleeves, but couldn’t tell you how much – it was really dependant on how much fabric I had then hemmed to my liking. The neckbands were a 5cm strip, pressed in half and basted to fit.
It’s the fabrics that are the stars here, and the Hemlock tee is a perfect vehicle for showcasing all manner of knits. The burgundy stripe was a generous gift from Jen, who has the knack of choosing exactly what I like in fabric. I’m assuming it has some rayon content, as it’s very soft and drapey while still being thick enough for winter wear. It is such a beautiful fabric that I’m excited to wear this winter.
I actually cut and half sewed a Tessuti Mandy Boat Tee from this fabric before remembering exactly why I never wear my other Mandy – the neck is too high and wide to be comfortable, and the excess fabric through the body doesn’t do me any favours. Luckily, there was enough fabric in the body to cut the Hemlock pieces (I wasn’t joking about the volume!), and I had leftover scraps for the sleeves and neckband.
This meant that I didn’t have a lot of wiggle room for adding length. The unhemmed length of the body turned out to be just right, so I trimmed the sleeves to length to match the style.
The red fabric is viscose/elastane jersey that I bought from The Remnant Warehouse some time ago to make a Maria Denmark Kimono Tee. That project was an absolute failure, and the remnants have lingered in my fabric store for some time since. I originally intended to make a sleeveless Hemlock from this fabric, but it was so much nicer than I remembered that I felt it would be a waste to not use as much of it as possible.
I used water-soluble stabiliser under the hems to stop any rippling when zig-zagging (which I tend to rely on when hemming any kind of knit these days – my machine is so prone to stretching them out, walking foot or no).
It’s interesting to observe how variably this pattern performs in different fabrics. In the soft and drapey viscose knits, the neck hangs open and the body drapes more like the pattern photographs. My previous versions in ponte and French terry hung more like sweaters, and the stable cotton like a boxy tee.
After a week of wear, the open (bra strap revealing) neckline on the red version bugged me so much that I donated it to the op shop – shame as it was perfect in every other way. The burgundy fabric was just that more stable to form a closer neck, and I’m sure it will get a lot of wear this winter.
Pattern: Grainline Hemlock Tee
Pattern details: “The Hemlock is an oversized tee that was designed with knits in mind. This tee is just the right amount of slouchy. With its bracelet length sleeves, dropped shoulder seams, and a hem hits below the hip it’s the perfect comfy top to pair with jeans, skinny leg trousers, shorts, and straight cut skirts!” Available as a free PDF download.
Fabric: 1.6m square soft striped plum knit, gift. Scraps of 150cm wide Sundried Tomato Jersey #752, viscose/elastane, from The Remnant Warehouse.
Other materials: Clear elastic, to stabilise shoulders.
– 1/2″ forward head adjustment, same done to sleeve cap
– Lengthened sleeves and body hem somewhat (unsure how much)
– Cut own neckband, 5cm wide (6mm SA), and stretched to fit when sewing