I’m still catching up on blogging everything I sewed and knitted over the past few months. Today I’m sharing a couple of Sew Over It Kimono Sleeve Jackets,* sewn in print rayon I bought on sale at Spotlight. These jackets have been one of the most frequently worn additions to my closet I think I’ve ever made.
You might recall I’ve been on the hunt for stylish ways to avoid the sun for a while now, culminating in my atrocious polka dot Simplicity 1873 sun jacket I made last year. That jacket ended up being more like Maggie Smith’s terrible 80s inspired turn in Evil Under the Sun than an elegant 30s piece. I’m happy to report these SOI kimono jackets were far closer to my inspiration!
The pattern itself was quite simple, so I actually (SHOCK) employed some fancy construction techniques to protect the rayon and make it look good, inside and out. Both jackets are constructed with French seams, and I even took the effort to carefully slip stitch the inner portion of the neck band down. The body and sleeves were narrow hemmed, which I feel is a sturdy and elegant finish on a fine fabric. This also added more length, which was needed despite adding 1.5cm to the body and 6cm to the sleeves.
As the neutral print version was my prototype, I made a few small changes for the pink crane print jacket – changing my careful angled forward head adjustment to simply moving the shoulder seam forward 2.5cm and narrowing the hems to 6mm double turned instead of 1cm. (I usually shift the shoulder seams of my garments forward at least 12mm to stop them falling back on my body.)
I’ve read criticism of Sew Over It instructions before and felt there were one or two issues with this pattern. In the section “Finishing Touches”, the reader is instructed to simply fold over and slip stitch the bottom of the neckband down after stitching to the body, when a much neater and easier finish could be accomplished by machine. The sleeve had the grainline running across its width, which I found unusual, so I changed it to align with the length. If there is a reason for this (besides fabric economy), please let me know as I’ve never seen it before.
Finally, I found the neckband in no way matched the length of the jacket, which was good for me as I forgot to cut it longer! Despite adding 5cm+ to the body length, the band still had a few cm’s of length to trim off. Perhaps I didn’t ease it in enough, though there was no direction to do so.
I think this jacket is the kind of pattern that Sew Over It does well – they are elegant, easy to sew and practical. I’ve styled it in loose-fitting outfits, but they work equally well with a pair of skinny jeans and a tee. It is also a massive relief to me that I can actually wear these jackets. I seem to grab one every time I’m headed out of the house! I’d definitely recommend this pattern if you’re looking for a lightweight, easy-to-sew jacket that can be dressed up or down.
Pattern: Sew Over It Kimono Sleeve Jacket
Pattern details: “Stylish, flattering and comfortable, the Kimono Jacket adds a touch of effortless charm to any outfit. With its 1920’s elegance, the long version exudes Gatsby glamour, while the shorter version makes a perfect pairing with skinny jeans and a simple t-shirt, taking an everyday look from blah to bewitching.” Sizes XS-XL (bust 33-43″).
Fabric: Two lots of 2m x 135cm wide printed rayon, both from Spotlight on sale.
Mods: Size M (12-14)
– Changed sleeve grain to run down length instead of across width
– Sewed bottom band finish by machine before slip stitching down length (instructions dictate afterthought slip stitching)
– Lengthened body pattern 1.5cm
– Lengthened sleeve pattern 6cm for full or bracelet length
Neutral print version:
– Added an extra 3cm to body and sleeve length by sewing narrow 1cm hems
– Forward head adjustment, evenly through to shoulder (which was only a short distance on the bodice), going to nothing at sleeve
Pink crane print version:
– Added an extra 3.8cm to body and sleeve length by sewing narrow 6mm hems
– Straight 2.5cm forward head adjustment across whole shoulder seam, with sleeve cap moved forward 2.5cm
*Edit 09/01/18: it has come to my attention that it is inaccurate to name jackets such as this “kimono”, which are full length robes with design features that wrap around the body. This pattern is more akin to a “haori”, an open overjacket. The SOI name for this pattern is Kimono Jacket, but I’ll refer to it as a “kimono sleeve jacket” from now on to reference the style of sleeve head rather than the cultural garment. Thanks to @little_kotos_closet on Instagram for her work in educating folks about these styles of garments, which has led to Wiksten changing the name of their jacket pattern from Kimono to the more correct Haori.