I’m back with my first pattern review of the year! It almost seems redundant seeing how many times this pattern has already been reviewed: the Named Inari. I’d already made the dress version and loved it, so when I had some leftover rayon from another project, I decided to sew the tee variation.
This was a pretty simple sew so there’s not a lot to report. It took a little longer than it should have due to my fabric choice, so I’ll share a few trusted techniques for controlling shifty fabrics (and not letting them control you!).*
My method for cutting tricky fabrics is from the Grainline blog. I sandwich the straightened fabric between two layers of thin paper (newspaper reel ends). She uses scissors but I find a rotary cutter on a massive mat a bit more efficient (and easy on my wrists).
As my new washing machine likes to eat delicate fabric, I utilised French seams throughout, even on the armscye. I wish I’d shown the foresight to cut a seam allowance larger than 1cm there!
Due to my height I cut the hem 7cm down from the tee cut line, and finished the it with a self bias facing to preserve length and match the neck finish. To tame bias tape made from temperamental fabric, I spray starch the shit out of it (outside, of course) to make it more like paper than fabric.
Finally, I employed taut sewing (for the first time, would you believe?) and my cheapie $1 teflon foot to stop the fabric rippling as it went under the presser foot. As my machine is notorious for making a mess of delicate fabrics, I was surprised by how much this helped.
I’m actually really pleased with the look of this tee, but it’s just another in a long, depressing line of handmade clothing I can’t wear because of my weak body. Most days I find I can only wear tops made from stretch jersey that moves with my body, and the fact that this top features deeper and therefore slightly constrictive sleeves made from a non-stretch woven means it’s pretty much impossible for me to wear right now.
It’s disappointing, but at least the main project I made with this fabric – the Sew Over It Kimono Jacket – was a complete success. I wear it all the time and will try to get them (yes, there’s more than one!) blogged when I have the energy for photos again.
Pattern: Named Inari Tee
Pattern details: A loose-fitting tee dress and a cropped A-line tee, available in sizes 32-46. Comes as a layered PDF, copyshop or A4, or a printed pattern.
Fabric: Leftover printed rayon from Spotlight
Mods: Size 44 bust and shoulders, 46 waist and hips (most of these mods were made for the dress variation)
– Nearly 2.5cm forward head adjustment, moved sleeve cap forward to match
– Let out lower body approx. 7mm each side seam, effectively straightening side seam and minimising cocoon shape
– Made hem 7cm down from tee cut line
– Omitted sleeve cuffs
– Bias facing for neck and hem
*Or you could be like the expert seamstress at Spotlight, who, when I asked what method she uses to tame silk chiffon, replied, “I just sew it”.