When I wrote about my cotton/linen Grainline Archer Shirt, I mentioned it would look elegant in a fabric with more drape. So, here is my second iteration of the pattern, sewn in a lightweight cotton with a fantastic watermelon print.
The fabric was a bargain find from a Facebook buy/sell/swap group, though I’m 99% sure it originated from Spotlight – Amanda from Bimble and Pimble sewed a fab Alder Shirtdress with what looks like the exact same fabric. At any rate, it’s softer and drapier than most poplins I’ve bought from Spotlight, and made for a shirt that was easy to sew and wear.
I sewed this up pretty much the same as my last Archer, with the exception of cutting 3cm buttonbands due to a serious of unfortunate accidents. Does anyone else have those times where you try to rectify cutting mistakes and everything just gets worse? I also topstitched the armscye and side seams for a more traditional shirt look.*
I think I like this shirt better than the last, thanks to my fabric choice. The only thing that bugs me is those sleeves – they are designed to hang over the hand, so the cuff and sleeve are quite large. I shortened the sleeve at the lengthen/shorten line without reshaping anything, and I feel like a narrower cuff and sleeve would balance better against the oversized shirt and look more put together. But I’m not bothered enough to actually do anything about it!
Pattern: Grainline Archer Shirt
Pattern details: “The Archer Button Up is a loosely fitted button up shirt with long sleeves. View A has angled cuffs and a back pleat at yoke. View B has straight cuffs and a gathered lower back detail.” Available as a printed pattern or PDF in US/A0 copy shop and print at home in sizes 0-18.
Fabric: 2.8m x 112cm watermelon spots and stripes cotton, from Facebook group (originally from Spotlight)
Other materials: Sheerweft interfacing. Buttons from stash.
Mods: Size 10 bust and waist, 12 hips.
– 1/2″ forward head adjustment, added to shoulder point on yoke and taken from front-yoke seam, same adjustment to sleeve cap
– added 4.5cm bust dart, 5cm down from underarm seam, by slashing and spreading, thus adding 4.5cm length to whole front
– approx. 1.2-1.5cm broad back adjustment, cut and moved back armscye out and widened back yoke at armscye to match
– shortened sleeves 5cm so they ended at wrist
– used tower placket rather than continuous bound placket, drafted new cuff to match (based on straight cuff B)
– used 3cm wide buttonbands
– centred cuff button vertically
– added topstitching to armscye and side seams
*I always thought of topstitched overlocked seams as faux flat fell seams, but as it turns out this is a welted seam, while the way home sewers perform a “flat fell seam” is actually a faux flat fell seam, according to Liesl Gibson in these comments.