Silver linings: Style Arc Georgie Jeans with tutorial

A woman wears dark skinny jeans, pink tee and blue flats.
Necklace and shoes from St Vinnies, tops from Salvos. Artwork in background by Beth!

You might remember some time ago (last year!) I made up the Style Arc Misty Jean in a stretch denim with modal from The Fabric Godmother. Unfortunately, the jeans were a wadder due to the fabric, which bled nonstop. The Fabric Godmother gave me a store credit for the value of the denim, and with a hefty dose of my own money, I purchased this cotton/elastane stretch denim in super black (goddamn exchange rate and international post).

A woman wears dark skinny jeans, pink tee and blue flats.

As I’d enjoyed the jean-sewing process so much, I chose the Style Arc Georgie Stretch Woven Jean for this fabric. According to a forum post I read (that is now locked down), the Georgie and Misty are created from the same block. The Georgie has a higher waistband which is designed to sit at the natural waist, and a slightly wider cut through the leg (see tutorial at end of the post for sewing the enclosed elastic waistband). Style Arc tends to have consistent, true sizing, so I was pretty confident these would fit me with minimal adjustments – I just slimmed the legs a little to have a skinny fit like the Misty Jeans.

Close up of jeans back yoke and pockets.
EDIT: I included this picture in this post, thinking it was the Georgies…nope. That’s the Style Arc Misty. Sorry for any confusion!

“But Siobhan – that’s not you in the photos!” Nope – when I tried these on, feeling very smug with my jean-sewing prowess, I couldn’t even get them over my thighs. I’d had a fabric fail and assumed that because the denim had 3% elastane, it would be plenty stretchy, but this was not the case. In fact, they were so small, they fit my friend Beth, who is a good 20cm shorter than me, and 10cm smaller all around.

I’m glad someone got use out of these jeans, and as you can see, they’re a perfect fit on Beth. It’s just a bit disappointing when you spend a lot of time creating something, only to realise they’re not at all what you expected. I’m really not well informed enough on the topic of fabric qualities to know how to determine what is a suitable stretch for a skinny pull-on jean. Obviously my assumption about elastane content was wrong! Perhaps the denim would have made better Ginger Jeans?

Woman's legs wear dark skinny jeans.

You wouldn’t believe it, but my two fails still hasn’t dampened my enthusiasm for sewing jeans. I’ve got some Gingers to finish up and share with you soon. Til then – enjoy the cuteness of Freya and Eliza, Beth’s kids who are frequent guests on this blog!

Woman posing in dark skinny jeans, interrupted by two children jumping into the photo.
Awwwwwwww.
Elastic waistband tutorial

I found the instructions for attaching the waist elastic a bit confusing, so I’ve included some photos for you to follow along.

Georgie Jeans elastic 1
1. Attach elastic to front waistband. I didn’t stretch this at all as I prefer flat front waistbands for tummy comfort, with the stretch distributed to the back. That pink pen mark is a Frixion which will disappear with heat.
2. Fold front waistband over, baste bottom ends together and attach to front pant.
3. Sew side seam, with the back waistband flipped over to cover front waistband where the elastic exits. This means the elastic can’t move around or redistribute stretch when wearing, so you want to make sure you’ve got the stretch right in the front before sewing.
5. The side seam after sewing. The back waistband neatly covers the elastic coming from the front. Topstitch the back waistband to enclose the elastic in a traditional manner. Obviously the side seam allowance needs finishing first.

 

The deets:
Pattern: Style Arc Georgie Stretch Woven Jean
Pattern details: available sizes 4-30 as a single sized paper pattern from the Style Arc website, or as A4 PDF patterns in groups of 3 sizes from Etsy. Note that each size is a separate file.
Errata: diagram and instructions do not match. Instructions dictate to sew back crotch step 12, diagram shows step 2.
Fabric: 3m x 138cm Stretch Denim – Super Black from The Fabric Godmother. 97% cotton, 3% elastane.
Other materials: 32mm high density elastic, from Spotlight. 30/3 spun poly thread for topstitching, from M Recht Accessories.
Mods: Size 12
– used double topstitching rather than twin needling
– took in legs 8mm each inseam and side seam, tapering to nothing at hip marking and crotch for skinny legs
– added 2cm length to legs
– adjusted waistband for 32mm elastic, rather than 2cm

Author: Siobhan S

20 something, living in country Australia. Spoonie profile: ME/CFS, dysautonomia, anxiety. All about sewing, knitting and food. Unapologetic feminist and disability advocate.

9 thoughts on “Silver linings: Style Arc Georgie Jeans with tutorial”

    1. These are actually a very old creation – I only got around to asking Beth for pics recently! I was pretty relieved when they fit *someone*, because I really didn’t want to send them to the op shop.

      Liked by 1 person

  1. Lucky Beth! You’re getting plenty of practice anyway so you’ll fly through the next pair you need to make. When it comes to figuring out the stretch in fabric …the %elastane doesn’t always relate to the %stretch. My understanding is that you mark a 10cm section and then stretch your fabric, if it stretches to 12cm then it’s got 20% stretch. 🙂

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    1. That’s how I see it – as practice – and I just enjoy topstitching anyway, so it’s a nice “process” project. You’re right about the stretch, but this pattern doesn’t specify stretch. The fabric requirement is for “Our coated stretch bengaline, Bengaline or any stretch woven fabric” – which is pretty darn vague.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Hi Siobhan – shame about the stretch issue because the jeans looks damn fine! I made the Misty Jeans a while ago using bengaline I purchased from Style Arc. I can confirm it is very stretchy indeed.

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    1. Hi Paola, yes bengaline is very stretchy. I’ve used the stuff from Spotlight to make Elle pants. I guess I was hoping the stretch denim would work for the Georgie as I used something similar for the Misty, and if anything, they were a bit too big!

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