This is another in a series of summer tops I’ve been sewing. The fabric is a gorgeous rayon from the Spotlight $2/m clearance table. I usually don’t wear much black, but the gem-like colours in the pattern were too entrancing to resist.
The pattern is actually for a dress: the Style Arc Adeline. It has been doing the rounds of the online sewing community for a while now. I made a muslin for the dress a while back, which I have only kept in the idea of doing a “worst hits” muslin post. It was just that bad. I had filed it under “trends that look horrible on me” until I was in need of a loose-fitting top pattern with kimono sleeves and cuffs, and figured that the Adeline might fit the bill.
It certainly did! This is just the dress pattern, shortened with a curved, almost shirt-tail hem, and boat/scoop neck rather than the deep V featured in the pattern. The deep facings are topstitched, and the cuffs tacked down in a few places to stop them shifting. I’m surprised by how well the pattern translates to a top – it certainly looks better on me than the dress did!
Where this project came undone was not the fabric, pattern, or even user error: it was my misbehaving sewing machines (yes, both of them!). I am lucky enough to have two sewing machines I use fairly frequently – my Janome DC2101, which my grandmother bought me for my 21st birthday, and mum’s Bernina Bernette 740E from the 90s. The Janome is a reliable mid-range machine, which produces an even stitch and can sew through near any bulk. But as I’ve mentioned before, it struggles to sew anything remotely thin or shifty, as it just can’t keep that fabric in place.
I tend to rely on mum’s Bernina for such projects, but unfortunately it had been away for repairs for some time. When it finally arrived home, I quickly started work on my backlog of projects that required the firm foot pressure of the Bernina, including this top. The Bernina performed well for all of two days before it started acting up again – bobbin stitches would not form; the thread falls off the take-up lever causing birdsnests of thread underneath, dirty with sewing machine oil; and the tension is so off the stitch gathers the fabric.
This is what happened to my poor rayon hem. I was sewing the (up to now) failproof roll hem from Grainline Studio, only to discover that the hem had been eased, causing the fabric above it to billow out. The bobbin stitches were also incorrectly formed, interspersed with unsightly loops of thread.
After a bit of whining (my notes for this part of the project read: “FUUUUUUUUUUUU”), I carefully unpicked the eased hem and finished it on my Janome, being careful to sew a few samples first to ensure the machine would not stretch the fabric out in the action of stitching. Of course, my samples lied to me, and the machine did stretch the hem out, creating an amateurish lettuce hem.
For some delightful reason unbeknownst to me, sewing this particular hem (not the samples, oh no), was also the exact time that my Janome also decided to cock things up, by leaving a trail of loose and unformed bobbin stitches, in a not-dissimilar style to the Bernina. *Sigh*
What irks me about this project is that I spent hours cutting, prepping and sewing to achieve the best results I could, only to produce something which looks much like my year 7 textiles projects*, for reasons entirely out of my control.
To conclude this pitiful tale, my Bernina Bernette is currently back having repairs in Geelong, where I expect it will sit for another 6 months. I can’t quite deal with two sewing machine problems at the same time, so I’m still sewing on the Janome and avoiding rayon roll hems in the hopes that it plays nice!
Pattern: Style Arc Adeline Dress
Pattern details: “Great designer style dress which is easy to sew and wear. The slight cocoon shape and its roll up sleeve makes give this style a casual but trendy look.” Available as single size paper pattern or as A4 PDFs, in sizes 4-30.
Fabric: 2m x 148cm wide black floral print rayon, from Spotlight.
Other materials: Tessuti lightweight interfacing, for facings and to stabilise shoulders and kimono seam underarm
– Size 12 top, 14 bottom with extra 5mm width
– 12mm forward head adjustment, going to nothing at first cuff notch
– Cut to top length with curved hem
– Redrafted neck to a smooth boat/scoop shape, with deep topstitched facings
* And trust me, they were CRAPPY.